Sunday, February 17, 2013

Painted Rock


If you ever hike at Lands End in San Francisco, bring a pair of binoculars.  If you are lucky, and it's a clear day, you can make out the remains of Painted Rock. A sign will warn you of the dangers, but intrepid hikers can move beyond the sign to see the beautiful creation that has stood for over a hundred and fifty years.

Painted Rock was erected in the 1800s as a memorial to Chinese slaves. The rock is man-made and was designed and built by a Chinese immigrant, Wu Zhao. Zhao had come to the area in the hope of finding a job because, in China, she had been a slave.  She came with no money, just the clothing on her back. Every day, Zhao would take a boat out to the site and drop stones to create a platform. The memorial structure resembled a lighthouse, with Chinese symbols engraved on all sides. It was about fifteen feet tall.  The actual structure is made of limestone, and because of this, it has eroded slowly, leaving just a small tower in the bay.

Zhao worked tirelessly on the monument for nine months.  One day while chiseling the Chinese symbol for "slave" into one side of the monument, Zhao lost her footing, fell into the bay and drowned. Her body was never recovered.  Her son, Yi Zhao, took on the job of completing his mother's project, which took an additional five months The young man left the Bay after finishing the project. He returned to China, where he became a rice farmer.

Ever since the construction of this monument, descendants of Chinese slaves have been boating out to Painted Rock to place flowers and light joss sticks in memory of Wu.



24 comments:

  1. Thank you for posting this! It was so helpful. I recently took a trip to Lands End with my family and we were searching very hard for Painted Rock. However, we didn't really know what to look for so when I got home I came across this blog (what a coincidence) and found it very informative. My children even asked me why there was a small boat in the bay and I am so glad that I can give them an answer now.
    If you have any pictures of Painted Rock, could you add them to your site? Also, we were wondering if Wu Zhao has any remaining relatives in the United States.
    Thank you so much for posting this wonderful blog!

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    1. I just uploaded a picture of Painted Rock. My research suggests that all the remaining Zhaos are living in China today as rice farmers.

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    2. Yi Zhao's youngest daughter moved back to San Francisco shortly after the great quake and married into the Zheng household. They have run wing sing dim sum on Stockton blvd for six generations. A faded picture of Wu and painted rock can still be seen behind the cash register.

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    3. My favorite dimsum restaurant. I need to look for the picture of Wu Zhao next time we go there.

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  2. I will sure look for it the next time I come to San Francisco

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  3. Where exactly is Painted Rock on the Lands End trail? This post makes me want to go to SF and check it out. So much history...

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    1. It past the mid-way point near mile rock beach. You will be notified by a warning sign.

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  4. Where did the name "Painted Rock" come from? It seems like a misnomer to me. I can see the paint, but the rock part eludes me. Was the name mistranslated, perhaps?

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  5. It looks like some additional work/rennovations were done after the initial construction. The top part of the tower seems to be made from metal.

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    1. In the early 1900s the buildings was reinforced with iron.

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  6. It looks like it is falling apart. Can't believe that such an important historical landmark is being neglected. Is there a petition I can sign to get Painted Rock more federal funding?

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    1. I am really not sure about that. People don't seem to care about it anymore.

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  7. Can anyone volunteer to start a petition? Or we can raise funds without the government help. It doesn't have to start out big. Maybe even a bake sale :-)

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  8. My neighbor tells me that it was not uncommon for people to throw coins (sometimes they would hide gold ones) at the base of the structure as an offering and to pay their respects.

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    1. I also hear that around Lunar New Year, on stormny nights, you can see the ghost of Wu Zhao hovering around Painted Rock

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    2. Seriously. Come on.

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  9. I would not have gone out to the rock if I had not seen the display on Angel Island. Such a sad story. Be sure to go out on a clear day to see it. Well worth the trip.

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  10. I enjoyed the hike at Lands end but could not find this famous and historic Painted Rock even with my binocular. Can someone give me more specific information on where I should be in order to best view the Rock? I tried one of the highest points above the Labyrinth but still unable to find it.

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  11. I did a little research on the Zhao family and it appears that they are from the royal family in China. I am very interested to find out why Wu Zhao was a slave if she has royal blood.

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  12. Is Painted Rock closer to the split rock structure above Sutra Baths at one end of the trail or closer to the golf course at the other end?

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  13. You mean the split rock near the labyrinth

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    1. You are absolutely right. Split rock is located near the labyrinth, not anywhere near the Sutra bath

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  14. Painted Rock refers to when the cliffside was painted white as a navigational aid for incoming ships to the Bay. That "memorial" rock is an old, now defunct, lighthouse. Nice creative, yet fictional, interpretation of history though...

    http://www.thebolditalic.com/articles/6298-the-lesser-known-treasures-of-lands-end
    http://www.inetours.com/Pages/SF-photos/Beach/Mile-Rock-LE.html

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